Favourite spots and things to do

This page tries to give you a number of spots where you can get the feel of the city; it does not really list the major sights (with a few exceptions), but rather a number of less well-known places off the tourist path. As for the major sights and "must-sees", I suggest that you consult a travel guide book. I personally recommend the TimeOut Vienna guide. It is well-researched and more comprehensive than most other guides. The new 3rd edition is much recommended, as it's significantly better than the (now obsolete) 2nd edition. They also have a good online section on Vienna.
Order the book at Amazon.com (US), Amazon.co.uk (UK) or Amazon.de (Germany).

Please send comments and feedback to

More Things To Do and pictures will be added over the next few weeks.
This page was last modified Friday, 05-Jun-2009 15:58:18 CEST

Editorial note: I am aware that this page looks awful if viewed with Netscape 4 on a Mac. I have tried to improve things, but there's not really much I can do.

General preliminaries:

  • Security: In the 2003 survey by the William M. Mercer Institute, Vienna ranked second (after Zürich) in a worldwide ranking of "best city in the world to live". It is also one of the safest big cities in the world. Of course, general precautions apply. Muggings are extremely rare, but pickpockets do operate in the touristy areas and at the airport and railway stations. Therefore, you should not openly handle lots of money, keep your bank and credit cards in a secure place, and in your general appearance try not to create the impression that you are rich. Keep your bags and belongings close to you at all times. All of this is really a matter of common sense.
    There aren't any really dangerous areas, but young single women should avoid the Prater area at night (always go in groups). The Karlsplatz underground complex is a well-known meeting place for drug addicts at night. Generally these people will just beg for money, and not take it from you, but it can feel somewhat intimidating.
    Black people should avoid the Gürtel area along subway U6 and tram 18. Drug dealers from African countries are operating in this area, and the police have been known to indiscriminately arrest perfectly innocent black people under the suspicion of dealing with drugs.

  • HochstrahlbrunnenIs the water safe? Yes. It comes via a pipeline from the Styrian alps and is about as pure as Evian. It also contains neither chlorine nor fluoride. The Hochstrahlbrunnen (giant fountain) on Schwarzenbergplatz was erected to commemorate the opening of the Vienna water pipeline. It is illuminated at night.
    This map shows where the water in Vienna comes from. Schwarzenbergplatz can be reached on trams D, 1, 2, or 71.

  • Traffic: To get a feel of the city, you might actually want to hop into your car and try to find your way through the maze of one-way streets or get stuck in the daily traffic jam on the A23 motorway (a.k.a. Südosttangente), and perhaps you'd also like to get some first-hand encounters with Viennese car drivers, who rank among the worst and most aggressive in the world. Or perhaps not.

  • Vienna's public transport system is excellent, and I suggest that you get a network ticket. They're available as 24-hour, 72-hour and weekly (Mon-Sun only) passes and offer huge savings over single tickets. You certainly won't need one if you plan to stay only inside the Ringstrasse, but you'll definitely need one if you want to truly explore the city. These tickets are valid on all public transport (train, subway, tram, bus) within the city boundaries (i.e. all 23 districts). Public transport is available 24 hours a day, with regular trains, subways, trams and buses from 5 a.m. to 12:30 a.m. and night buses between 12:30 a.m. and 5 a.m. Intervals are frequent — for example, there's a subway train every 3 minutes during peak hours and every 8 minutes in the evening, and you never have to wait more than 15 minutes for a tram. Just don't buy tickets on trams or buses — for some weird reason they're more expensive than tickets bought at subway stations or from ticket offices ("Vorverkauf"). Many tobacconists' also sell tickets. If you need help navigating your way around town, you can find maps of the subway and tramway system here.
    Check out my Vienna Metro web site for details.

  • Bicycles can be rented from the city bike stations. You need either a Maestro-compatible bank card or a Citybike Tourist Card. The first hour is free of charge, the second hour costs €2, every additional hour €4. Cycling is usually safe if you are careful and pay attention to the traffic around you. On cycling paths, beware of tourists, who are usually blocking them.

Things to explore:

  • Wo die Kuh mit dem Wolf am Brett spieltTake your time to explore the first district (Innere Stadt) — all of it, on foot. There are many little gems hidden in the numerous small lanes (the fresco of the cow and the wolf playing backgammon is only one of them). Take your time; you'll need at least one day to see it all. If you need a rest, you'll find that there are plenty of cafés on your way.
    Particularly rewarding areas are: Schottentor to Graben via Freyung and Naglergasse; the entire area between Bäckerstrasse, Postgasse, Schönlaterngasse and Köllnerhofgasse; and the entire area between Graben, Kohlmarkt, Herrengasse and Neuer Markt.

  • Once you walked through the city, you should also consider walking around it. Along the Ringstrasse, erected between 1850 and 1900 as a boulevard to replace the former city fortifications, you find many of Vienna's most famous buildings: from the university, the city hall, the Burgtheater (imperial theatre), the parliament building and the imperial museums to the Hofburg (imperial palace), the opera house and Otto Wagner's famous Postal Savings Bank. The Ringstrasse is certainly Vienna in all its fin-de-siècle splendour.
    If you don't feel like walking, trams 1 or 2 will take you around the Ringstrasse, but notice that you may have to change at Schwedenplatz and/or Opera.

  • Map of Vienna's districtsBear in mind though that most people don't live right in the city center and that life for the average Viennese person takes place outside the Ringstrasse. Many of the other districts also have their charms - especially the 4th, 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th district. Don't feel like you're wasting your time when you're exploring an area that doesn't have any "official" sights — you're exploring the "true" Vienna.

    The character of the districts varies a lot: apart from the historic city centre (1st), there are bourgeois (3rd, 8th), middle-class (2nd, 3rd, 4th, 6th, 9th, 14th) and working-class (2nd, 3rd, 5th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 15th, 16th, 17th, 20th) areas; areas with lots of students (7th, 8th, 9th, 16th) as well as artists and intellectuals (2nd, 7th, 16th). And then there's of course the very rich (13th, 18th, 19th) and some rather uninspiring residential areas built mostly after World War II (21st, 22nd, 23rd).

Imperial Vienna:

  • HofburgThe Hofburg (Imperial Palace) is where the emperors of Austria used to reign over the monarchy; today it houses the offices of the president of the republic, various museums, and the National Library. It is a huge complex of buildings that has grown over more than 700 years, second in size only to the Vatican City in Rome. Particularly impressive are the National library's old reading room (entrance on Josefsplatz) and the Schatzkammer (treasure chamber; access via Schweizerhof). As it's such a large complex, there are various entrances; the ones on Kohlmarkt and on Heldenplatz are perhaps the most obvious.
    The Burggarten (palace gardens) is a small, friendly park; its main attraction is the Palmenhaus (palm tree house), which was recently converted into a trendy café. On the left side of the park, you can find a statue of Emperor Franz Joseph, looking tired and slightly lost.
    How to get there: Trams D, 1, and 2 (Burgring).

  • Schoenbrunn PalaceThe Schönbrunn palace and palace gardens were built for Empress Maria Theresia in the 18th century as a summer residence. The palace is certainly impressive in all its baroque splendour, but especially during the summer, tourists are just herded through it like sheep. However, the palace gardens will not fail to impress just about anyone. There's the Gloriette, a pavillon on a hill behind the palace (now a café), the world's oldest zoo (recently renovated and constantly being expanded), a maze and several other attractions. On hot days you can even bring your swimsuit or swimming trunks and go for a swim at the Schönbrunn public swimming pool.
    How to get there: Subway U4 (Hietzing); trams 10 or 58 (Schloss Schönbrunn).
    Admission to the palace gardens is free, the admission fee for the palace is about EUR 10.


  • Museum of Art HistoryThe number of museums in Vienna is near endless, you'll find everything from the traditional to the downright quirky. Whatever you're interested in, it's probably there — only the railway museum has been relocated to Strasshof, some 20 miles outside town. The one must-see for tourists is probably the Museum of Art History (Kunsthistorisches Museum, KHM), which houses the art collection of the Habsburgs. It's a huge and important collection of German, Flemish and Italian art from the 15th to the 18th century. Expect queues and lots of tourists.
    How to get there: The Museum of Art History is on the Ringstrasse near Burgring tram station (lines D, 1 and 2). The railway museum can be reached with suburban train (S-Bahn) line S1. Get off at Silberwald, (not Strasshof!) station.
    The city of Vienna web site has a complete list of all museums.

  • MAKMy favourite museum is the Museum of Applied Arts (Museum für angewandte Kunst, MAK). This beautiful building, designed in the 1880s by Ringstrasse architect Heinrich Ferstel in a neo-Renaissance style, is an arts and crafts museum, Vienna's (much smaller) answer to London's V&A. Each room of the permanent exhibition was curated and designed by a different local or international contemporary artist. In addition to the permanent collection, temporary exhibitions, focussing mostly on architecture or design, are shown in an adjacent building. The museum café, designed by Austrian interiors wizard Hermann Czech, is also well worth a visit.
    How to get there: subway U3, tram 2, or bus 1A (Stubentor).
    The admission fee is €8, but entry is free on Saturdays.

  • There was a lot of noise about the Museum Quarter (Museumsquartier, MQ), opened in 2001 and situated in the former Imperial stables. After a huge controversy whether modern buildings can be placed in a historic setting, Austrian star architects Ortner & Ortner altered and downsized their plans and finally planted three rather mediocre modern cubes into a mediocre baroque ensemble. The result is somewhat anticlimactic, but still hundreds of people populate the large courtyard during the summer months, hanging out in the various chic bars and restaurants.
    Perhaps the most interesting place to visit here is the Austrian Museum of Modern Art (MUMOK) in the grey cube on the right, which shows a good selection of 1960s and 70s art, with a focus on Austrian Action art, Nouveau Realisme and Pop Art. The Leopold Museum in the white cube on the left is what most tourists go for; it focuses on Austrian fin-de-siècle paintings, including Schieles, Klimts, and Kokoschkas, but beware: these are only the minor works of the painters; for the real thing go to the Austrian Gallery in the Belvedere Palace. The Kunsthalle, which houses temporary exhibitions and retrospectives of modern art, is hidden behind the central Winterreitschule building.
    How to get there: subway U2 (Museumsquartier or Volkstheater) or U3 (Volkstheater).
    There are a variety of ticket options, including multi-museum combi tickets, which give you some small discounts. The Leopold Museum is one of Austria's most expensive museums, charging €9 for the ticket, plus a compulsory(!) €1 cloakroom charge.

  • Sammlung EsslOne remarkably successful museum of contemporary art is the private Sammlung Essl some 10 miles out of town in nearby Klosterneuburg. Karlheinz Essl, owner of a chain of DIY stores, had the house custom-built by architect Heinz Tesar, and while slightly imposing from the outside, it is one great, impressive exhibition space on the inside. The focus is on contemporary Austrian art, but there are frequent temporary exhibitions on all kinds of things.
    How to get there: from Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof, Spittelau or Heiligenstadt, take a suburban train (S-Bahn) number S40 and get off at Klosterneuburg-Weidling. From there, it's a 10 minutes' walk further out of town along the railway line. Just follow the signs.
    Admission is EUR 6, but there are frequent special events with free entry.

  • Tramway museumNot only does Vienna have Western Europe's second-largest tramway network, here you'll also find one of the world's largest tramway museums. Situated in a former tram depot, it houses an almost complete collection of trams from the earliest electric trams (1897) to the present. The drawbacks are that you can't enter any of the trams and it's open only during the summer weekends.
    How to get there: subway U3 or tram 18 (Schlachthausgasse).
    Open Saturdays and Sundays from early May to early October only; the admission fee is a measly EUR 2.

Buildings and monuments:

  • Flakturm AugartenThe most impressive monuments against war imaginable are the six giant Flaktürme (anti-aircraft gun towers) erected by the Nazis in 1943-44. Built within close proximity to other buildings, these giant towers with walls up to 3.5 metres thick turned out to be quite indestructible when World War II had ended, so they're still there as dark reminders of a dark past. Two of the towers are located in the beautiful Augarten park (2., Obere Augartenstrasse), which is worth a visit by itself; one is in Esterházypark (6., Fritz-Grünbaum-Platz); two are in Arenbergpark (3., Neulinggasse) and one is hidden behind the walls of the Stiftskaserne barracks (7., Stiftgasse).
    All but two of the towers are closed to the public; the larger tower in Arenbergpark houses an exhibition space of the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK), and the one in Esterházypark contains the Haus des Meeres aquarium and the Museum of Torture.
    How to get there: Augarten: subway U2 (Taborstrasse) or trams 2 (Taborstrasse) or 31 (Untere Augartenstrasse) | Arenbergpark: bus 4A (Ziehrerplatz) or 74A (Hintzerstrasse) | Esterházypark: subway U3 (Neubaugasse) or bus 13A, 14A, 57A (Haus des Meeres)

  • Flakturm AugartenSlightly less impressive, but no less important is Alfred Hrdlicka's Monument Against War and Fascism on Albertinaplatz behind the opera, which caused quite a controversy when it was inaugurated in the late 1980s, as it directly refers to Austria's role in the Third Reich; conservative politicians tried for months to relocate the monument to a less prominent place.
    A similarly controversial monument is the Monument of the Red Army (a.k.a. Russendenkmal) behind the giant fountain on Schwarzenbergplatz, which commemorates the liberation of Vienna from Nazi rule by the Soviet army in 1945. Some politicians who believe that the Nazi rule was actually better than the Soviet occupation which followed have repeatedly tried to get rid of it, but the monument still stands.
    How to get there: Albertinaplatz: subway U1 (Karlsplatz), trams D, 1, 2 (Oper) | Schwarzenbergplatz: trams D, 2, 71 (Schwarzenbergplatz)

Parks and parkland:

  • RiesenradThe Prater used to be the Imperial hunting ground until Emperor Joseph II opened it to the public in the 18th century. In 1873, it housed the World Fair, and today part of it is a funfair, and the other part is a quiet stretch of parkland frequented by families, joggers and just about everyone longing for a bit of relaxation. At the funfair, don't miss out the giant ferris wheel (Riesenrad), built in 1898 and featured in the movies The Third Man and The Living Daylights.
    How to get there: Subway U1 or U2 (Praterstern); tram 1 (Prater Hauptallee)
    Admission to the funfair area is free, you pay for each attraction.

  • HermesvillaThe Lainzer Tiergarten (Lainz deer park) is a huge stretch of woodland in the southwestern part of the city. You can either enter through the Lainzer Tor (Lainz gate), which leads to an open parkland and the Hermesvilla, a country house built for Empress Elisabeth (Sisi); or through the Nikolaitor (Nikolai gate), which takes you directly to the woodland area with free-roaming wild boar and deer (don't forget to close the door!). The wild boar are mostly harmless and will ignore you, but stay clear of their young, or they will attack. A typical walk from the Nikolai gate via the Rohrhaus inn to the Hermesvilla and Lainz gate will take about 2 1/2 hours; a bit more if you stop for a meal at the Rohrhaus (cheap, hearty Viennese food).
    How to get there: To get to the Nikolai gate, take subway line U4 to Hütteldorf, cross the Wien river on the footbridge and turn right into Auhofstrasse, following the signs saying "Lainzer Tiergarten" (about 10-15 minutes). To get to the Lainz gate, take tram 60 as far as Hermesstrasse, then change to bus 60B.
    Admission to the park is free, admission fees for the Hermesvilla vary.

Trips in, out of, and around Vienna:

  • KahlenbergTake a trip up Kahlenberg (preferably after sunset) and enjoy the view over the city. The restaurant is so-so, but the view is about the best you can get. During the daytime in summer, there is also a bus service to the nearby Leopoldsberg, where the view is similarly great.
    How to get there: Buses to Kahlenberg (number 38A) depart every 10-15 minutes from Heiligenstadt station (subway line U4 or tram D).

  • StadtbahnVienna's subway dates back to 1898 and is an important piece of architecture itself — one that spans almost the whole city. Apart from having beautiful station buildings (designed by the Art Nouveau architect Otto Wagner), the elevated sections of this railway are a great way to get a view of the city's outer districts. Railway enthusiasts should by all means take a trip on the historic lines that used to be part of Otto Wagner's Stadtbahn system.
    Check out this page for details and a route suggestion.

  • Boat on the DanubeOkay, so it's the obvious touristy thing to do, but why not take a cruise on the Danube? The formerly state-owned DDSG (stands for "Donaudampfschifffahrtsgesellschaft", which is one of the longest words in the German language) offers round trips on the Danube and Danube Canal in Vienna as well as day-trips to the beautiful Wachau area in Lower Austria or an express boat service to Bratislava. They've been privatised for a while now, but not yet long enough to offer rip-offs.
    Check out their web site at http://www.ddsg-blue-danube.at/


  • GrabenGraben, Kohlmarkt and Kärntner Strasse house Vienna's luxury shops and numerous tourist traps. It's still a good area for window shopping though, and you may find the occasional gift, but beware that in this area it comes at a price. The pedestrian areas here are mostly frequented by tourists; the Viennese generally shop elsewhere. Meinl am Graben is especially notable; it's a luxury food shop with selected foodstuffs from all over the world. If you are looking for a slightly cheaper supermarket, there is a Billa in Singerstrasse, just around the corner from St Stephen's cathedral.
    How to get there: Subway U1 and U3 (Stephansplatz).

  • To view the Viennese in a true shopping frenzy, you must go to Mariahilfer Strasse, preferably on a Saturday afternoon. This is where most Viennese spend their money, and on Saturdays they do it with a vengeance. Stretching for about 2 km from Westbahnhof railway station to the Ringstrasse, Mariahilfer Strasse is a veritable shopping mile with an excellent selection. Whereas the street itself houses mostly chain stores and department stores, there are many specialist shops catering for just about any need in the quieter side streets.
    How to get there: Subway U2 (Museumsquartier), U3 (Neubaugasse, Zieglergasse or Westbahnhof) or U6 (Westbahnhof); trams D, 1, 2 (Burgring); bus 2A (Königsklostergasse or Kirchengasse), or 13A (Neubaugasse)

  • To experience the (questionable) joys of the Viennese suburban lifestyle, go to Donauzentrum, the largest shopping mall within the Vienna city boundaries. Granted, all shopping malls in the world look similar, but then you always wanted to know what the Viennese variety looks like, didn't you? The Donauzentrum impresses with its sheer size and a large variety of shops that are generally cheaper than those closer to the city centre. There is also a multiplex cinema here (German versions only), and you can find a number of restaurants if you get hungry while shopping.
    How to get there: Subway U1 (Kagran)

  • Vienna NaschmarktVienna's numerous markets have a very typical, almost bazaar-like atmosphere and offer just about anything you can think of food-wise. The two most famous markets are Naschmarkt and Brunnenmarkt. The Naschmarkt on Wienzeile is the largest of Vienna's markets and quite crowded on Saturdays, when it is complemented by a huge flea market. Recently, it has become fairly gentrified, which shows in the rather steep prices and the trendy bars that are popping up all over the place. The Brunnenmarkt is smaller and cheaper, and has a distinct Turkish/Balkan flair, but there are plans to "renovate" it, which has already been the death blow to several other markets in Vienna.
    How to get there: Naschmarkt: Subway U4 (Kettenbrückengasse); Brunnenmarkt: tram 2 (Brunnengasse)

Food and drink:

  • Vienna's first district, the inner city, is not particularly renowned for its culinary delights. Actually, with a few notable exceptions, restaurants generally serve mediocre, overpriced food. Once you cross the Ringstrasse and head for the so-called "inner districts", you'll find a better, cheaper selection.
    If you're absolutely lost for ideas what to eat, try cruising the Spittelberg area of the 7th district (slightly trendy/touristy), or walk up Florianigasse in the 8th district (slightly studenty). Both these areas are crammed with lots of places to eat at various price levels.
    How to get there: Spittelberg: Subway U2 or U3 (Volkstheater) or tram 49 (Stiftgasse); Florianigasse: subway U2 (Rathaus).
    See the separate page on restaurants for tips on where and what to eat.

  • For cheap lunches, look out for a nearby Chinese or Indian restaurant. Many of them serve set lunches for around EUR 5 or all-you-can-eat lunch buffets for around EUR 8.

  • No good travel guide will fail to mention the ubiquitous Würstelstände (sausage stands). Typical specialities are Käsekrainer, Waldviertler and Burenwurst. Don't be afraid to try them — if you encounter any digestive reactions, it's usually not due to hygienic problems (the stands are meticulously controlled), but rather the high fat content of the sausages. Drinking a beer or cola with your sausage (as the locals do) is a good precaution. The quality of the sausages varies a lot; general agreement seems to be that the ones on Hoher Markt (near Rotenturmstrasse) and Albertinaplatz (behind the Opera) are the best, but I personally prefer the one at Währinger Strasse subway station, the one on Wallensteinplatz, and the one across the street from the Rennweg S-Bahn station.
    See restaurant list for details.

  • More interesting, perhaps is the Duran chain of self-service restaurants, which serve a huge variety of open sandwiches and a number of cheap, basic, but good and filling warm meals for under EUR 5. The interior is a pretty shameless 1970s plastic, and it's about as local as you can get. For cheap sandwiches in a classier environment, go to Trzesniewski, who is selling "unpronounceably good" sandwiches at EUR 0.90 apiece — and they are delicious.
    See restaurant list for details.

  • Vienna is certainly famous for its coffee houses, an institution founded, according to legend, back in the 16th century. There are actually two kinds: the Kaffeehaus is a place where you drink coffee, read newspapers and spend a lot of time, where as the Konditorei is more of a pastry shop where they sell coffee and sweet cakes. Sadly, some of the most famous cafés in travel guide books are expensive tourist traps, such as the Café Central, the Café Landtmann or the Demel.
    There are a couple of "grand cafés", which you should visit, like the Eiles, the Sperl, the Korb or the somewhat seedy Westend. And if you're in search of the famous chocolate cake, consider the cheap, popular alternative to Demel: the Aïda chain of pastry shops, an unbelievable remnant from the 1960s, ubiquitous, very popular with the Viennese, good, cheap, and pink.
    See restaurant list for details.

  • It may not be particularly well-known, but it's a fact that Vienna has the highest density of Italian ice cream parlours outside Italy. No visit to Vienna is complete without ice cream! The best places are Bortolotti's, the Eissalon Hoher Markt, and a local favourite, Tichy's. Most ice cream parlours are closed between October and March, but Zanoni's on Lugeck is open all year.
    See restaurant list for details.

  • HeurigerOne thing that is well-known about Vienna are the Heurigen, the various wine taverns in the outer districts where vintners serve their own wine; many also have a buffet serving selected hot and cold foods at reasonable prices. The best-known Heurigen district is Grinzing, but do bear in mind that this area is shunned by the locals and visited mostly by busloads of German tourists. You'll get a better glimpse of genuine Viennese Gemütlichkeit at the quieter taverns found for example in Stammersdorf or Nussdorf.
    How to get there: Stammersdorf: tram 31 (final stop); Nussdorf: tram D (final stop).

  • SchweizerhausBeer drinkers may be pleased to note that there are a number of beer gardens catering for all those who're not too partial to wine. The best-known and probably most popular is in the former Swiss pavillon of the 1873 World Fair, the Schweizerhaus in the Prater. The staple food here is either Stelze (pig's leg) or Kartoffelpuffer (potato fritters), and they have the best Budweiser-Budvar (the Czech stuff) on tap that you'll find in the city. It can be a bit crowded and noisy, though. Quieter alternatives are the Fischerbräu in the 19th district or the Siebensternbräu in the 7th district, both of which brew their own beers and serve excellent food in ample portions. During the summer, the main courtyard of the former general hospital, the University Campus Altes AKH, transforms itself into one huge beer garden. It's well worth a visit.
    See restaurant list for details.


  • Vienna's nightlife has been worse, but considering that Austrians are a people of early risers who get up around 6:30am and are asleep in bed by 10:30pm, it still doesn't compare all that favourably to cities like London or Berlin.
    Bars and clubs concentrate in the first district in the so-called Bermuda triangle between Seitenstettengasse and Judengasse and the Bäckerstrasse area south of Rotenturmstrasse. All-time favourite Flex is located on the bank of the Danube Canal, and a number of clubs have opened in the Gürtel railway viaduct, most notably the Rhiz, B72, Chelsea, and Loop, to mention only a few. The weekly Falter has a fairly complete listing of what's going on where.
    How to get there: Bermuda triangle: subway U1, U4 or trams 1, 2 (Schwedenplatz); Bäckerstrasse: subway U1, U3 (Stephansplatz); Flex: subway U2, U4 or trams 1, 31 (Schottenring); Gürtel clubs: subway U6 or tram 2 (Josefstädter Strasse).

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